Guide to Rolex Daytona Gem-Set
An overview of the history of Rolex Daytona Gem-Set models, from the pioneering creations of the 1980s to the latest 2024 editions.
Starting from the 1960s and 1970s, Rolex created unique pieces upon request for exclusive clients, producing watches adorned with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires. These models were not part of the regular production but represented special creations reserved for a select elite.
From the late 1980s to the early 1990s, Rolex structured its gem-setting program more definitively, transforming custom requests into a more organized production. Off-catalogue models received exclusive treatment, with special packaging and discreet handling.
These precious stone-embellished watches were never included in official catalogs, but were revealed only to authorized dealers during Baselworld, who could place orders in hopes of securing an allocation. This tradition continues today at Watches & Wonders, with the out-of-catalogue watches being presented only to an inner circle of people making it extremely difficult to get information.
Among all the off-catalogue watches produced by Rolex, the Daytona is undoubtedly the most coveted. Over the years, this iconic model has been crafted in countless variations, enriched with diamonds, sapphires, and other precious stones, making it one of the most exclusive and sought-after timepieces.
I Period: 1984-1988
In the 1980s, after more than two decades of production, the Daytona still struggled to gain popularity. For this reason, Rolex made the bold decision to introduce two new Daytona references at a significantly higher price – in the case of reference 6270, even twenty times more than a classic gold Daytona.
These models, however, were not just simple gold Daytonas. References 6269 and 6270 were the only Valjoux-powered versions to be embellished with precious stones.
Produced between 1984 and 1988, reference 6269 features a bezel adorned with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds and a dial set with approximately 240 diamonds. Reference 6270, on the other hand, boasts 28 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and a pavé dial with 240 brilliant-cut diamonds and 9 sapphires replacing the baton indices.
It is estimated that only a few examples were produced: around 30 pieces for the 6269, including a unique piece with a non-pavé black dial, and approximately 20 for the 6270.
II Period: 1988-2016
This phase includes the Zenith Daytonas and the pre-ceramic in-house movement models.
During this period, gem-set production flourished, featuring a vast array of colors, precious stone compositions, and pavé dials.
Over the years Rolex has worked to cover so many color variations from the most traditional to the boldest, such as the one in pink, a color that we will later find again in the latest model made last year.
The orange configuration will also have the same fate, in fact the hue and the use of the mother of pearl dial will be taken up in the Daytona 116578SACO in 2019.
The pre-ceramic in-house movement references retained the same colors used in the Zenith Daytonas, with some interesting experiments, such as the full pavé model with rubies at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, and especially the famous "Leopard."
The reference 116598 SACO, launched in 2004, is among the most iconic gem-set Daytonas ever. What makes it unique is its leopard-print dial and strap, accompanied by ten diamond-set indices in yellow gold and golden Arabic numerals. The bezel is adorned with 36 cognac baguette-cut sapphires, set using the invisible setting technique, while the lugs feature 48 diamonds.
III Period: 2016 - 2024
In 2016, Rolex introduced the Daytona with a ceramic bezel, bringing the model back to its origins with a steel case and black or white dials inspired by reference 16520, and a black Cerachrom bezel paying homage to reference 6263.
This period also marks a golden era for gem-set models, which have become increasingly appreciated by collectors. Rolex has experimented with bold compositions, such as the "Tiger," a worthy successor to the "Leopard."
The bracelet version appeared in 2019, but yellow and white gold Oysterflex configurations were also made.
We then find the Daytona 116578SACO launched by Rolex in 2019, in features the orange diamonds on the bezel and dial also draws so much inspiration from the version found in the gem sets produced during the Zenith Daytona phase of which we showed you the photo above.
Along with the bracelet model, an Oysterflex version with a black dial was also produced.
The off-catalogue models presented on the occasion of the 60th anniversary were also particularly successful. Those that caused the most stir were the two models made with rubies and the pink model.
The ceramic Daytona also brought the new platinum configuration, for which Rolex also presented the following gem-set variants.
Rolex Daytona Rainbow
The "Rainbow" models deserve a chapter of their own, as they represent the pinnacle of gem-setting.
The reference number is 16599SAAEC, where “SAAEC” translates to “Sapphire Arc-en-Ciel” in French, meaning “Rainbow Sapphire.” Starting with the arrangement of the rainbow on the bezel, we note that the color sequence is inverted compared to more recent Rainbow models, further emphasizing its uniqueness. In references from 2012 onward, the gradient begins with red and moves clockwise through shades of yellow, green, light blue, blue, and pink, while in this case, the sequence is exactly the opposite. Enhancing its aesthetics is a diamond pavé dial with blue sapphire hour markers.
On November 8th 2024 questo orologio è stato venduto all’asta da Phillips. As many had expected, this timepiece exceeded its initial estimate of CHF 3,000,000, ultimately fetching CHF 5,505,000. This price makes it the third-most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction, just behind the legendary Paul Newman Daytona, which was sold by Phillips in New York for CHF 17,752,500 and the Daytona 6265 "The Unicorn" sold by Phillips for CHF 5,937,500 in 2018.
In 2012, Rolex launched two new Rainbow versions, with yellow and white gold cases and bracelets (116598RBOW and 116599RBOW). Six years later, reference 116595RBOW introduced rose gold, with baguette-cut hour markers matching the bezel's color gradient.
In 2022, Rolex presented two more configurations in yellow and white gold, featuring baguette indices, like the 116595RBOW. One model has a black dial, while the other is enriched with a pavé dial. Completando
To mark the 60th anniversary of the Daytona, in 2023 Rolex revisited the entire Daytona collection by creating a new reference. In 2024 the first Rainbows appeared in yellow, rose, and white gold with both black and pavé dials in the references 126598RBOW (yellow gold), 126595RBOW (rose gold), and 126599RBOW (white gold).
In addition to these, the maison updated also the models with rubies. These were presented in yellow gold (126548TRU) and white gold (126549TRU) but in an unprecedented full baguette version, with dial case and bracelet completely covered with precious stones
With Watches & Wonders just around the corner, we eagerly await what Rolex has in store for 2025. Finding leaks on new models won't be easy, but we'll keep you updated as soon as we discover anything new.
