Watches and Wonders 2023 - The Most Important New Products of 2023
An introductory guide to the most important novelties presented in Geneva
With the start of the week hosting the Watches and Wonders event in Geneva, we can finally show you the new creations from the two brands most anticipated by collectors and enthusiasts.
Rolex
Starting with Rolex, there are several new features this year, including the launch of completely new models, brand new materials, and never-before-seen details.
Among them, the most striking are the revisiting of the entire Daytona collection, for the first time also with an open back in the platinum version, and the launch of the brand new 1908 inspired by a 1931 Oyster Perpetual.
Following the launch of the Sea-Dweller in titanium in November last year, the house is also experimenting with this novel material for the Yacht Mater line, presenting the new RLX.
Finally, other collections such as GMT-Master, Sky-Dweller and Day-Date have also been updated and enriched with new configurations.
Out of production
As happens every year, the introduction of new models also coincides with the discontinuation of other timepieces.
The total update of the Daytona and Sky-Dweller collections caused many references to go out of production.
While many of these were replaced, models such as the Daytona in yellow gold with a green dial did not have a successor in the new version of the watch.
For the Milgauss, a completely new watch was expected to be launched; this did not happen, so in the catalogs 2023 marks the end of production of this historic collection.
Same fate for the Cellini Moonphase, the last model to be discontinued, ending the production of the entire collection.
Off catalogue
For the first time, this year's most talked-about novelty is not found in the catalog, but among those "off-catalogue" models, those references that are produced by Rolex in very few quantities and are intended for the brand's most loyal clientele.
Rolex presents three new variants of its Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, full of joy and energy.
Made in 18k yellow, white, or Everose gold, these watches have adopted an original dial. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the arch-shaped aperture at 12 o'clock displays an inspirational key word in English: "Happy," "Eternity," "Gratitude," "Peace," "Faith," "Love," and "Hope." The small window at 3 o'clock reveals one of 31 exclusive emoji in place of the date each day.
Entirely made with champlevé enameling, the dial impresses with the depth and intensity of its colors and decorations. The pattern is inspired by a jigsaw puzzle. The turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green, and yellow pieces fit against a monochrome background and each represent one of life's key moments. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different shades, set to match the main color of the dial, which is turquoise blue in the 18K yellow gold and 18K white gold versions and orange in the 18K Everose gold watch.
In addition to the discussed Day-Date we also find new sports models clad in precious stones, among them we find two ruby Daytona in references 126599TRU and 126598TRU and a diamond-clad model.
Finally we find the "Destro" GMT coated with green and black precious stones.
Patek
Patek Philippe presents a wide selection of new models, ranging from a Calatrava with an original 24-hour display and a travel-time function for displaying a second time zone, to a new version of the Grandmaster Chime, and the first annual calendar to enter the Aquanaut Luce collection.
Tudor
Tudor continues to ride the wave of success with releases increasingly faithful to its vintage heritage. The new Black-Bay 54, inspired by the Tudor Submariner 7922, the brand's first diver's watch, features a case diameter two millimeters smaller and a vintage-inspired crown and bezel. In terms of expanding the pre-existing offer of Black Bay watches, Tudor presents a new Black Bay with a burgundy bezel equipped with the latest technical and aesthetic evolutions and a new GMT model with an opaline dial combined with the emblematic red and blue bezel.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin pays tribute to the retrograde complication with three fascinating models from three different collections that celebrate this rare and emblematic function through exclusive new combinations.
Cartier
For seven years, Cartier has been reintroducing its models through the Cartier Privé program, and this year the honor goes to the Normale, the first Tank Louis Cartier designed in 1917. The Santos-Dumont gets a makeover with a colorful, refined look and three new skeleton versions. Not counting the five Normale references, Cartier presents 17 new Tank models and a new green dial for the Santos in steel.
IWC
IWC presents a new Ingenieur that pays homage to Gerald Genta's 1970s design.
This new model took more than five years to develop and is the latest chapter in the historic collection that has been part of the IWC family since the 1950s. At the time, the Ingenieur was IWC's answer to the Rolex Milgauss and other antimagnetic watches intended for scientists and engineers who needed reliable timekeeping when working in the presence of strong magnetic fields.
The new Ingenieur Automatic 40, available in three different dial colors and a titanium model, is a faithful and more sophisticated reproduction of Genta's design.
The grade 5 titanium version features a very accurate finish, with sandblasted, satin-finished and polished surfaces. The gray dial with black hands and applied elements further accentuate the characteristic matte gray appearance of titanium.
What are your first impressions of these new releases?
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