Watches & Wonders 2025: Iconic Brand Releases and Rolex’s Exclusive Off-Catalog Models
Discover the latest novelties from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Zenith, Moser, TAG Heuer and Vacheron Constantin, including Rolex’s mysterious off-catalog models
Watches & Wonders 2025, the most important week of the year for the watch industry, has just concluded. We were present at the fair and, in this article, we tell you about the most significant new products and models that impressed us the most during the event.
Rolex
As per tradition, the most talked-about brand was undoubtedly Rolex, this time thanks mainly to a brand new addition: the Land-Dweller.
This is a completely new reference, the first real addition to the family of professional sports watches in over a decade. The design clearly recalls the aesthetics of the Oysterquartz of the 1970s, a model that is now quite sought after in the vintage market. However, there is no shortage of innovations, starting with the new integrated bracelet and the brand new 7135 caliber.
The dial features honeycomb work and is available in two colors: blue for the platinum version and white for those in white gold and steel or rose gold.
Alongside this prominent new addition, Rolex also introduced new variants of the Oyster Perpetual with pastel colors, a new Sky-Dweller in yellow gold with a green dial, and two unreleased GMT-Master IIs: one with an iron-rock dial and the other with a green and black bezel, combined with a new green dial.
The Daytona line was expanded with an Oysterflex model with a blue dial and a new “John Mayer” version with a gold subdial. Like every year, a number of “out-of-catalogue” models also appeared, at the moment we have found four new Daytona.
Leading the lineup is the stunning white gold Daytona 'Blue Sapphire, featuring a black dial, a bezel set with blue sapphires, and matching sapphire hour markers. Also making its debut is the Everose gold Daytona 'Le Mans', following the success of its white and yellow gold predecessors. Rolex presents also a striking new take on the Daytona 'Eye of the Tiger' in Everose gold, boasting a lacquered dial adorned with diamonds. Finally, the maison released the 126538TBR, crafted from 18k yellow gold, this timepiece features a captivating turquoise stone dial with bold black sub-dials. The bezel, set with baguette-cut diamonds, harmonizes seamlessly with the matching diamond hour markers and the fully brilliant-cut case.
Patek Philippe
Among Patek Philippe's new additions is the Reference 5308P, a self-winding watch that packs no fewer than four complications: minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar. After its limited-edition debut during the Tokyo 2023 exhibition, the model now joins the official catalog. The 42mm platinum case with openwork lugs houses a light blue gradient dial with dark blue details. It is priced at €1,247,380.
Also arriving in the Grand Complications collection is a new retrograde perpetual calendar (ref. 6159G) , with a white gold case and Clous de Paris decorated bezel. The dial, made of gray metallic sapphire crystal with black shading, allows glimpses of some elements of the movement.
As for the more elegant and formal line, Patek offers a new manual Calatrava, reference 6196P, with a 38 mm platinum case and rose gold-plated opaline dial. The dark brown strap perfectly matches the model's essential design.
Just a few months after his debut, there are some novelites also new for the Cubitus collection, with two new time-only models in rose gold and white gold, with a diameter reduced to 40 mm (versus 45 mm previously). The dials are brown for the rose gold version and blue for the white gold version.
Finally, it could not miss a piece of Haute Joaillerie, the new 5811/1460G , made of white gold with no less than 1,480 diamonds set between the case, dial and bracelet. It is priced at €641,510.
Cartier
Among the most fascinating proposals at the fair, Cartier brought back to life the Tank à Guichet, created in 1928. Featuring a dial with no hands, replaced by two small windows showing jumping hours and continuous minutes, the model was reinterpreted in four new versions: yellow gold, rose gold and platinum (all faithful to the original), as well as a 200-piece limited edition with the windows arranged diagonally.
Zenith
In 2025, Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary and the common thread used to mark this occasion is blue. In fact, both the booth at the fair and so many of the maison's releases feature this color that has “always been a signature color of Zenith going right back to our founder,” as CEO Benoit de Clerck recalled.
The sports model that impressed us most is the Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition, with a dial and bezel in a deep ceramic blue. The El Primero 3600 movement guarantees precision to the tenth of a second, inside a 41 mm case.
The most striking release, however, is the new Zenith G.F.J., a tribute to founder Georges Favre-Jacot. This model combines some iconic components of the maison's history, such as the famous caliber 135, updated for the occasion with a 72-hour power reserve, with some celebratory details such as the 38mm platinum case and the stunning dial. In particular, on the latter the Zenith has really done an incredible job, playing with blue on three different sections, with shades of blue getting lighter and lighter the further you move to the center of the watch. The outermost section features “blue bricks” guilloché engravings punctuated by 18k white gold hour markers and 40 hand-applied white gold pearls, the main section is made of lapislazzuli, and the seconds subdial is made of mother of pearl.
H. Moser & Cie
Of Moser's new releases, the new Pop collection is the one that has stuck with us the most.
Among the most creative maisons at the fair, Moser amazed with its new Pop collection, consisting of three models from the Endeavour line (Small Seconds, Tourbillon, and Minute Repeater Tourbillon), all featuring dials in natural hard stones: coral, lapis lazuli, pink opal, turquoise, lemon chrysoprase, and Burmese jade.
Inside the booth, watches were displayed along with a plethora of mini fans, reiterating how much of a breath of fresh air this maison is in the industry. Once again this year Moser was anything but mundane.
TAG Heuer
One of the most scenic stands was TAG Heuer's, entirely dedicated to the world of Formula 1. At the entrance, a Red Bull and Ayrton Senna's legendary McLaren anticipated the launch of the new Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1. Featuring a flyback chronograph and transparent red dial, it is housed in the typical square case, this time in white ceramic.
The watch is filled with details hinting at Formula One, from the logo at six o'clock, to the words “lights out and away we go” placed on the two subdials. This is a limited edition of only 10 pieces, with a price tag of CHF 155,000.
Another fantastic release were the new Inspired by the original models of the 1980s, the collection rediscovers vibrant colors and retro designs in nine variants, with 38mm cases, slightly larger than the historic 35mm , and details that directly evoke the spirit of early Formula 1: from bezels in TH-Polylight, a new patented composite material, to bright shades and rubber straps or steel bracelets.
The TH50-00 Solargraph caliber is powered by light: two minutes of sunlight is enough to provide a day's autonomy, while a full charge offers up to ten months of operation without exposure. Applied hour markers, TAG Heuer's vintage logos and the words “Formula 1 Solargraph” stand out on the dial. With prices between CHF 1,750 and CHF 1,850 depending on the version with rubber strap or bracelet.
Vacheron Constantin
We conclude with a true work of art created to celebrate the 270th anniversary of the Vacheron Constantin. In addition to the many novelties presented during this special year, the maison created the world's most complex wristwatch.
Solaria Ultra Grand Complication has a case of 45 mm in diameter and 14.99 mm thick, incorporates 1,521 components and offers 41 complications, including displaying the position of the stars and the trajectory of the sun. The project took eight years of development and led to the filing of 13 patents.
Watches & Wonders 2025 once again confirmed the exceptional innovation and craftsmanship that distinguish the most prestigious watchmakers. From the extremely complex models of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin to the sporty and colorful creations of Rolex, via the bold forays of Cartier, Zenith, and TAG Heuer, the event highlighted the continuing evolution of luxury watchmaking. Each brand brought out innovations that not only celebrate tradition but also look to the future with boldness and creativity. It is clear that the watch industry never ceases to amaze, confirming its pivotal role in combining technology, art, and passion in timepieces that tell unique stories. All that remains is to wait for the coming months to see how these innovations will take shape and how the market will welcome the most innovative proposals.
