What’s New From Geneva Watch Days 2024
Geneva Watch Days 2024 showcased stunning releases, including Biver’s elegant Automatique, A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Handwerkskunst, Daniel Roth’s rose gold Tourbillon and many others
The Geneva Watch Days have just ended, the annual event dedicated to watchmaking, where numerous luxury brands present their latest creations. Organized in a decentralized format, it takes place in various locations across the heart of Geneva.
Here are the novelties that impressed us the most!
Biver-Automatique
Jean-Claude Biver, along with his son Pierre, continues to build their family-owned brand. After leaving LVMH, JLB decided to launch his own brand last year, introducing the Biver Carillon Tourbillon, a highly technical timepiece valued at over half a million Swiss francs. This year, the maison has returned to the essence of watchmaking by creating their first automatic watch with a 39mm case.
At first glance, the watch presents a simple, clean, and elegant design, reminiscent of a traditional three-hand watch. However, when looking at the caseback, one is mesmerized by the technical mastery. The caliber is rich in details, including the clous de Paris pattern and a bi-directional micro-rotor made of 22-carat gold, also engraved with the Biver logo. All the decoration is done at the Biver Atelier in Givrins.
In addition to the "classic" version of the two timepieces, Biver will also produce the "Atelier" collection, featuring stone dials and produced in even more limited quantities.
The prices of the Automatique model vary depending on the versions: the gold configuration ranges from CHF 78,000 to CHF 108,000, while the Atelier versions range from CHF 89,000 to CHF 121,000.
A. Lange & Söhne - Datograph Handwerkskunst
2024 is an important year for Lange, marking the 25th anniversary of the brand’s relaunch in 1999. The Datograph Handwerkskunst is the third model to celebrate this significant milestone for the maison, following the Datograph Up/Down with a white gold case and the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.” Appropriately, only 25 pieces of this model will be produced.
The "Handwerkskunst" series by A. Lange & Söhne, launched in 2011, is a collection of limited editions that showcases the brand's highest level of craftsmanship. In these models, the already meticulously finished movements are further enhanced with rare and intricate decorative techniques, applied both on the dial and bridges, with particular attention to the balance cock, often the focal point of elaborate artistic work. In this instance, the dial has been hand-engraved using the tremblage technique, giving the watch a truly unique appearance.
Daniel Roth - Tourbillon
Following LVMH's acquisition of the brand, the luxury group set to work on reviving this historic name. Everything was produced within the Fabrique du Temps, led by Michael Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Last year, the two produced the new Tourbillon Souscription, which was perceived as a direct continuation of Daniel Roth's previous work.
The new Daniel Roth Tourbillon stands out for its rose gold case and dial featuring a linear guilloché pattern, with a caseback revealing the beauty of the manual movement. Due to its technical complexity, this watch will be limited to only 50 pieces per year, priced at CHF 155,000.
De Bethune - DB28 XS Steel Wheels
De Bethune has unveiled a new version of its iconic DB28. This timepiece is the maison’s flagship model, with its distinctive lugs, futuristic design, and the central composition on the dial resembling the Starfleet Command logo from Star Trek, making it De Bethune's most recognizable watch.
This new version features the much-loved smaller case size (39mm), introduced in 2023 with the DB28XS Starry Seas, and is available for CHF 82,000.
Speake-Marin - Ripples Skeleton
Another novelty that caught our attention was the new Ripples from Speake-Marin, now available in a skeletonized version. The Ripple is the brand’s take on an elegant sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Launched in 2022, this model quickly became one of the brand’s flagship pieces, with many configurations presented, including this latest one.
The case is made of steel and measures 40.3mm. The retail price is CHF 29,900.
Konstantin Chaykin - ThinKing
A few years ago, the battle for the thinnest watch was between Bulgari and Piaget, but everything changed when Richard Mille temporarily claimed the record from the two contenders. However, no one had yet considered Konstantin Chaykin. The Russian watchmaker, known for his unconventional technical and design creations, has managed to reduce the thickness to just 1.65mm, setting a new world record.
The hours and minutes are displayed through two subdials that represent the eyes of the dial, with the logo as the nose and his signature smile, creating the classic face on the dial, which is the watchmaker’s trademark.
Piaget is one of the maisons that has been garnering increasing attention lately, thanks in part to the growing demand and appreciation for vintage Polo models. The current collection is equally noteworthy and showcases the brand's efforts to secure its place among the big names.
The Polo S line was introduced in 2016 and has since been produced in many variations, the latest being the skeleton version in black ceramic. The overall design is stunning, with the combination of the black case and blue hands working perfectly, and the skeletonized dial serving as the cherry on top. The price is CHF 40,000.
The Geneva Watch Days once again demonstrated how watch brands can exceed every expectation, flawlessly blending innovation and tradition. This year’s novelties, with cutting-edge technical creations and reinterpretations of iconic models, highlight the ongoing evolution of the industry. This event further solidified Geneva’s role as the capital of luxury watchmaking, proving that the future of haute horlogerie lies in the perfect synergy between craftsmanship and the most advanced technology.
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